Friday, June 27, 2008

Beach, Bon Fires and Traditions

On the 23rd of June, the eve of the feast of St. John the Baptist (San Juan) Spain incorporates a pagan summer solstice tradition into the religious calendar. On this night, fire in many forms is the protagonist of ther festivities all over the country. Here in Málaga everyone goes to the beach, many bring elaborate bbq paraphanelia to roast chops, ribs, chorizos, sauges and / or sardines over open fires. Big pits are set up with lots of wooden stuff, (much salvaged from garbage and recycling centres) to ignite bonfires after midnight. The fire rids the soul of evil spirits, especially if you leap over the dancing flames. At midnight they go into the sea to cleanse and purify the soul, (or just for the crazy experience of it) for a blessed and bountiful summer. Then there are impressive fire work displays over the sea in most coastal towns.

My husband's family were not originally from Malaga nor a coastal town, and thus, did not initiate their kids into the tradition, so I dragged my husband to the beach (he hates big crowds) with a cold picninc and beers to feel part of the celebrations. It is great people watching, and it always amazes and impresses me. People of all ages and several nationalities party and celebrate side beside with no conflict, problems, nor run-ins. Family's with little kids, groups of teenagers, groups of twenty-somethings, older people, mid age groups. They enjoy and let enjoy, no judging, no harassing. They're all their, they're all happy, they're all elaborate in their food, fires and friends. I love it!

We were on our own, but ended up by chance close to my daughter and her huge school crowd. It was enlightening and comforting to see her, unaware of our presence, in her crowd. She laughed a lot, moved easliy from one group to another, and went completely into the water at midnight and again 30 minutes later - her and a bunch of mostly guys. I got cold just watching her.

As we waited for the fireworks my husband and I cuddled in the blanket, (the sea breeze was chilly to our 40 something bodies) and he sang me the classic romantic Spanish songs he used to sing to me and taped for me before we were married. Amongst noise and craziness of all kinds we managed to form our own little cocoon and just enjoy the stars, each other and the happiness of our daughter two groups over.

No bon fire leaping, no cleansing in the sea, but a positive way to start the summer, and enjoy the way everyone enjoys life and repects traditions here.


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